The Sunscreen Expose - Many Questions and Some Answers

It's that time of year when we start to up our sunscreen use  and for me to once again wonder why I can't get sunscreeen with  both Mexoryls here in the US.  Yes you can get a couple with  Mexoryl  SX, at a premium price, but none with both Mexoryl SX and XL.  

I've used  Garnier Ambre Solaire  for years thanks  to a trip to France, and a  friend in Australia. Mexoryl is regarded as one of the best sunscreens, far better than what we use here , it's inexpensive overseas and if  thousands  of europeans have used it safely for years, then whats the FDA's probem? They preach safe sun but keep us from the protectants that work best. ( Tinosorb is said to be another top notch , only europe ingredient).

What I am only now reading is that not only is our sunscreens less effective, but many of the ingredients have the potential to be harmful to us. Hormone disrupting ( oxybenzone)  or might actually make skin cancer more likely ( Vitamin A) . So what are we to do ? The  obvious answer at this point is mineral -physical sunscreens. Zinc and Titanium Dioxide have no harmful efffect  unless inhaled ( so I read at ewg.org) which brings me to powder SPF. I LOVE powder SPF since I am so oily and can up my SPF whenever I want. Now I read that inhaling zinc oxide is dangerous? Not on skin , only if inhaled. Ok.  I am hoping using a sponge  applicator will jump that hurdle because powder is my best option during the day after my initial application.

To find out more I've been doing some research . I've got part of what http://www.ewg.org/  has to say on ingredients and also went to Ron Robinson, founder of Beautystat.com and also a cosmetic chemist who worked for years at companies like Avon and Estee Lauder.

First up my interview with Ron:

Q1. Why can we not get both Mexoryls here in the US? If they’ve been good enough for Europe etc. for so long and are among the best , why do we not have them ?

A. You can get it here in the US.( Note he means SX) It's been available here since 2006. It is considered to be the most effective FDA approved organic filter designed to protect against short UVA rays.

On XL he said  "the XL has not been approved by the FDA yet, so it's not available in the US. It is available in Canada and the EU countries.It is supposed to provide effective protection against both short and long UVA rays.

Q2. I’ve read that some sunscreen ingredients like Octisalate, oxybenzone and even Vitamin A can actually be harmful to us and our skin ? Is this true and do we need to worry about our sunscreen ingredients? Are there any chemicals we should avoid?

A. There was some controversy surrounding the use of Vitamin A in sunscreens. We addressed this last year with the help of our resident dermatologist, Dr. Ellen Marmur... see link... http://www.beautystat.com/site/skincare/the-truth-about-sunscreens-do-they-really-cause-cancer/

Q3- You told me  another time that sunscreens expire one year after opening. So basically even though they now have expiration dates, if opened that isn’t the case.  It’s just one year ?

A. I recommend you follow the expiration dates listed on the individual product.

From ewg.org:

"Sunscreen makers and users in Europe have more options than in the United States. In Europe, sunscreen makers can select from among 27 chemicals for their formulations, compared to 17 in the U.S. Companies selling in Europe can add any of seven UVA filters to their products, but have a choice of only three when they market in the U.S.

European sunscreens could earn FDA’s proposed four-star top rating for UVA protection, while the best U.S. products would earn only three stars. Sunscreen chemicals approved in Europe but not by the FDA provide up to five times more UVA protection; U.S. companies have been waiting five years for FDA approval to use the same compounds. Last but not least, Europeans will find many sunscreens with strong (mandatory) UVA protection if proposed regulations in Europe are finalized. Under FDA’s current proposal, Americans will not. "  Read full story here


So where does that leave us ? I'd love to hear your thoughts, so please weigh in.

I am also looking at as many  sunscreens as I can, both new that fit the bill or ones already out there .  For face, you can read about the newest from Skinceuticals here , a good light  day moisturizer  from Omorovicza  and I have Clarins new UV Plus HP coming soon.  For body there is also a SkinCeuticals with Mexoryl SX as well as Anthelios at drugstores. These will both cost you $ 25- 30.00. I have my eye one some new mineral/physical ones and will post as soon as I get info.


Image: Seaside Park, NJ via Seaside Park.

Omorovicza Complexion Brightener & Thermal Cleansing Balm

Omorovicza is a Hungarian based skincare line I've talked about once before.   Based on using  a patented mineral  delivery system  and Hungarian thermal waters, this luxury line has recently added some great new products to the line.

In my earlier testing I loved the Rejuvenating Night Cream( I've been using this all late fall into winter ) and the Radiance Renewal Serum.

Now for daytime I've got Complexion Brightener.  This has SPF 20 and is perfect for normal to oily  skin, but especially oily skin. It goes on very light  and sets to a slightly matte but glowing look while adding some moisture. I was surprised yesterday when I had applied this and  some blush thinking I wasn't going out and then I needed to make a quick run  to Walgreens in the snow. I looked in the  mirror and my skin looked great.  Finished  and bright . Off I went looking almost like I had a light foundation on.

The company says it conceals imperfections  and leaves skin porcelain, and they're right .  In warmer weather this will be  even better.

Also new is Thermal Cleansing Balm.  Here's what Omorovicza founder Margaret de Heinrich says about it  - " Thermal Cleansing Balm this really is my favorite product in the line (though I love them all, of course!)...You apply a small amount to a dry face (rub the balm between your fingers first so that it turns into an oil)...massage over your eyes (removes eye makeup) and then all over your face for about one minute. Afterwards, use a warm wet terry cloth mitt or hand towel to wipe off excess (must use a cloth as just water will not remove product).

"The mud we use is medical grade mud and comes from largest thermal lake in Europe (2nd largest in the world)...the lake renews itself naturally every 24 hours. It also contains sweet almond oil...as oil dissolves oil, this product is amazing for targeting and breaking up impurities (makeup, dirt, etc) and is fantastic for all skin types. Smells of orange blossom which is a scent created personally for us by same perfume house in Grasse that does all Hermes perfumes. Product detoxifies, removes impurities. "


 Personally  I liked how  this  worked but I simply can't get on board with  cleansing oils on my face, I have enough of my own. I know they say oil cleans oil, but I've tried other high end cleansing oils and have felt the same way.  It's a great cleanser for the right skin though, normal to dry in my opinion.  And it does have a lovely scent, which you wouldn't expect from a  mud based cleanser.  Also a little is all you need.  A small amount goes a long way.


You can read more about the line, and see/shop the products at : http://www.omorovicza.com/us/

Also at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman

Omorovicza Hungarian Mineral Skincare

Omorovicza is a new high end skincare range that uses the healing waters of Hungary to benefit your skin.

Based in Hungary all the products feature the water that naturally filters through the Carpathian mountains and is used in the famous thermal mineral baths in Budapest. The line also has it's own proprietary complex called The Pannon Complex .

According to the company Hungarian healing water "is rich in key minerals, including calcium, magnesium, zinc and copper, which boost the synthesis of collagen and elastin, strengthen the skin barrier, increase moisture retention and provide anti-oxidant defense against free radicals "

I have tried just a few products as it's a pretty extensive line and has something for all skin types. Most of the products have peptides, and virgin ente plum oil as well as apple pectin in some. This line is very natural and has a huge list of whats not in there. No petrochemicals, no synthetic colors, etc.

Balancing Moisturiser- This one is for combination skin and is very light. It hydrates just enough and smooth skin. This one has Ruby crystals and Pineapple and Rosemary extracts , both of which work well for oily skin. $ 125.00

Radiance Renewal Serum - This is a strong firming serum. After using this, skin felt really tightened. I was surprised by that. It's great start to the day serum if you need a little "lift". $150.00

Complexion Enchancer- An SPF 15 light tinted cream that adds a little color , a little moisture with light, smoothing, matte coverage. It's very sheer but a nice base or for makeup free days. $ 135.00

Rose Lifting Serum- This one I didn't try but what's intiguing is that it has May Seaweed which is supposed to be a natural botox to inhibit contracting of facial lines. $ 185.00

Omorovicza is available in the US at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, in the UK at Liberty and Harvey Nichols. Worldwide locations on their site at http://www.omorovicza.com/